Anselmi used to be the guiding light of Soave wine, but he increasingly found that local restrictuions were preventing him from expressing his full creativity so he gave up using "Soave" on his label, and its their loss, not his. Anselmi wines have never been better. This is wonderfully original wine, smelling of ripe russet apples, baked pears and savoury custard and tasting of pear and pineapple syrup that rich but doesn't cloy, and is cut by a spritzy tingle and the acid of boiled lemons and russet apple peel. But there's more, if you linger: a fern-like herb aroma, a kind of celestial boiled honey and fruit lozenge, some quince and crab-apple jelly. The longer you linger, the more you'll find.
Made from 70% garganega, this is the great rebel wine of Italy’s Soave zone. The remainder of the white blend, according to Soave production laws, ought to be the local trebbiano di Soave. But Roberto Anselmi, who chooses not to use the word Soave on his labels, instead adds small quantities of chardonnay and sauvignon blanc, two French varieties that flesh out the wine with compelling results. Light-medium-bodied, San Vincenzo exhibits satisfying roundness and weight, with ripe peach and musky, aromatic lift. It’s a remarkable white-wine value.
Beppi Crosariol The Globe and Mail