When I have to conduct comparative tastings - New World versus Old World - I often pit a good Bordeaux against a similarly priced, or cheaper, Cabernet Merlot from Western Australia. And the Australian usually wins, not because it tastes Australian, but because it tastes how you hoped the Bordeaux would taste. The Margaret River has only had wines for about 40 years, but the site was chosen because of its climatic similarities to Bordeaux in a good year and its ability to produce restrained, elegant flavours amid the flood of brash Aussie bruisers. This proves the point brilliantly. With its fresh basil and thyme perfume, its blackcurrant fruit sharpened by apple acid and the tang of blackcurrant leaves and softened with pastry, this is lovely now. But it will gain depth and beauty over the next few years, without losing its orchard bark and summer earth freshness, and be ideal for calm, contemplative aging.
Oz Clarke 250 Best Wines 2009
Bright and clear red-purple; a very fragrant bouquet with red fruits and a touch of leaf; an elegant, light- to medium-bodied unforced palate; best drunk while young. Screwcap. 13° alc. Rating 91 To 2010
James Halliday Wine Companion 2009