Good Gavi is, or at least should be, reminiscent of a decent Chablis – crisp, stony with great mineral characteristics and a natural affinity for a seafood partnership. This wine goes a little bit further up the Burgundy food chain, delighting us with a Premier Cru Montagny likeness that brings with it a depth of colour (golden rather than pale yellow), and more in the way of voluptuousness, while retaining a mineral edginess. It would go brilliantly with hot toast served with butter and lightly spiced potted cram, or a plate of langoustines with a lime mayonnaise.
Italia! MagazineNovember 2009